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Why Master Power?
Pride:

Every part we use is carefully chosen as if we were going to install it on our own cars. Since we started in 1983 we've said, "If we can't be proud of it, we won't sell it."

Engineered to Fit:

Each brake conversion kit we sell is designed and engineered to fit a specific vehicle and application. Every step is taken to make your conversion as much of a bolt-on as possible.

Installation:

Making your installation easy really matters to us. We supply components that match the application, pre-assemble as much as possible and package everything carefully and in an organized manner while providing you with clear, concise instructions.

Support:

Individual hobbyist customers and dealer/installers praise our ability to listen and determine the best solution for each project. Have an issue or question? Or simply want to review an installation guide? Just call. We'd love to help

Troubleshooting Guide

Troubleshooting

Remember this: Whenever you have a brake problem, it's usually something simple. Divide the system into sections and try to determine which section has the problem. A logical, systematic approach will make finding the problem easier!  Click here to download a printable troubleshooting flow chart to help guide you through a logical brake troubleshooting process (PDF).

Brake Troubleshooting Guide

If you can’t get a pedal please perform these tests before calling! Click here to download a printable PDF version of these troubleshooting tests.  If you are unable to diagnose your problem and decide to give us a call, please have your customer order number ready.

The Most Common Reasons for a Poor Brake Pedal:

  • The bleeder screws on the calipers are not facing up.
  • The master cylinder was not bench bled or was not bled completely.
  • Defective rebuilt master cylinder with pitted cylinder bore or defective pressure seals.
  • Master cylinder bore size too small for the system volume requirements.
  • Use of a disc/drum master for a 4 wheel disc system.
  • Master cylinder lower than the calipers or wheel cylinders.
  • Lines or components near a heat source.
  • Lines that loop up higher than the master cylinder and then come back down. Will trap air.
  • Low drag metric calipers without the use of a quick take up master cylinder.
  • No residual valve to rear drum brakes.
  • Drum brake wheel cylinders too large.
  • Silicone brake fluid ( it can tend to trap air and cause seals to swell).
  • Rear caliper parking brake / pistons not set properly with a rear disc system.
  • Rear calipers not being bled properly. Most brake problems with four wheel disc cars comes from the rear.
  • Improper pedal adjustment with too much free play.
  • Old or inferior quality brake hoses.

How to Properly Diagnose a Brake Problem:

If you have very poor brakes, a spongy pedal or no pedal at all you will have to do some diagnostics to determine where the problem is in your braking system. Is it in the master cylinder, the front brakes or the rear brakes? These tests assume that your system is properly installed and bled. Perform these simple tests to find where the problem is. Once you know where the problem is it will be much easier to fix.

  • Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder while leaving it on the vehicle.
  • Obtain solid tapered plugs for the master cylinder outlets with the correct thread pitch. These are available at any good automotive auto parts store. You may also use our supplied bleeder kit.
  • Plug the master cylinder outlets. Step on the pedal and hold pressure for about 30 seconds. If the pedal remains firm then the master cylinder is good.If the pedal sinks to the floor then the cylinder is bad.
  • If the master cylinder is fine, connect the line to the front brakes. If the pedal remains firm then the problem is not coming from the front brakes. If the pedal sinks to the floor or is excessively spongy then the problem is with the front brakes.
  • Connect the rear and if the pedal goes bad then the problem is in the rear.

You may also check whether your lack of a pedal comes from the front or the rear quickly this way. If you are sure the master cylinder is good, clamp off the front rubber hoses and try the pedal. If you get a good pedal then you know the problem is from the front calipers. Be very careful not to damage the hoses and try to protect them from damage by placing the hose between something smooth. There is a special tool sold in auto parts stores for this purpose. Try it on the rear if the front is fine.